1/15/2024 0 Comments Compare amp to volt conversionIt accounts for the energy losses during the conversion process. What is the purpose of the Inverter Efficiency in the calculation? The Inverter Efficiency represents the efficiency or effectiveness of the inverter in converting DC power to AC power. This means that in order to produce the same power output as 10 DC Amps with an inverter efficiency of 90%, you would need approximately 11.11 AC Amps. On the one had it is hard to believe that there would be meaningful heat coming from the gauge when it isn't actually physically connected to the wires.In this example, the calculated AC Amps is approximately 11.11. I can't decide how to think about the physics on this. However is it also dangerous to use a loop style Amp meter with a more powerful alternator (or is the risk there only that the wire may rub a bare/open spot)? Question: I understand why the inline wired Amp meter is dangerous (connect a more powerful alternator to that thing and you risk having it go up in smoke). Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations does conversions of Amp meter to Volt meter for a whole lot of Ford models ( ). The absolute best way is to remove the current carrying wires to a location under the hood, and to change them to a larger size if the load on those wires has increased. Wire of a certain size is only capable of handling a certain amount of current. The main problem could really be wire size. If accessories or a larger capacity alternator or generator are added, and the same circuit connections are kept, a potentially larger current than before is now under the dash. Removing the ammeter and just connecting the wires together has removed the gauge but not all of the current running under the dash. This applies mainly to the cars that have all of the current under the dash. Just changing, or adding a voltmeter, doesn't do much to avoid risk unless you take some other steps. There is a problem though regarding the safety issue. It's merely a voltage measurement as if you put a hand-held voltmeter across the two battery terminals. A voltmeter is hooked up in parallel across the load of the car and does not carry the current used by the engine and accessories. The other, in an effort to keep the heavy wire and current from under the dash, was a shunt hookup where a small sample of the current was measured to give you a gauge reading allowing much smaller (and less risk) wire under the dash. One ran the entire system current through the gauge (early cars, but up to at least 1962 for Chevy). There were actually two separate factory methods of wiring an ammeter. An ammeter is in series, a voltmeter is wired in parallel to the source. You'd just have to be creative and substitute a voltmeter gauge into the ammeter location and hook it up as a voltmeterĪ voltmeter hookup versus an ammeter hookup, and the operation of the gauges, is as simple as series versus parallel. The exception would be if you need the original look, and one of the clever posts had a solution for that. Also, the issue about ammeter versus voltmeter as a gauge - they are obviously different, and it would make no sense trying to convert one when both are readily available. I'm going to disregard the cars before 1955 comment. Lot's of info here, some of which is pretty correct.
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